There are no roads to Juneau

9 July 2010
Friday

There are no roads to Juneau and so we booked a day cruise from Haines to Juneau. We boarded the Fjordland, a catamaran-style people ferry at 8:45 in the small boat harbor of Haines at the foot of Main Street. A very pleasant and competent deckhand served us tea and coffee before a breakfast of blueberry muffins and apple juice. Shortly thereafter we began to spot the incredible wildlife that abounds in the Lynn Canal, North America's largest natural fjord. Numerous sightings of Humpback whales kept the whole ferry-load jumping from one side of the vessel to the other. Good thing everyone had a digital camera; there would not have been enough film aboard to take care of all the blows, rolls, breaches and tails that we saw.

Just the flat and calm water of the fjord and the snow-capped mountains surrounding it would have been reward enough for the voyage. But soon we were treated to sightings of several small glaciers and numerous waterfalls cascading down the steep rocky mountain-sides. Then we approached a rocky rookery that was home to 50 - 60 Stellar sea lions ranging from massive one-ton males to recently born calves sunning themselves on the rocks or swimming in the water.

A short while later a shout from the captain directed us to the antics of five or six Orca whales leaping in the water. We were ready for our mid-morning apple snack.

After all that excitement we docked in Yankee Cove and boarded a bus for the remainder of the distance into the city-center of Juneau, about an hour by road but another several hours by boat if we had gone that route. Along the way the driver pointed out highlights like Douglas Island, Juneau Peak, the governor's mansion, the domeless capitol building and then the principal harbor currently inhabited today by three gigantic cruise ships that nearly doubled the population of the city. We had several hours to explore the town, to shop and to eat lunch. Perhaps the most surprising discovery was all the jewelry shops and fur stores. We found some shops that were more our style and price range. And then we had lunch in a cute little downtown bakery and "lunchery." Jim found his brewery and had a sample and by then it was time to get back on the bus.

Next stop was the Mendenhall Glacier just outside the city limits. We hiked to a spot close to the terminus of the brilliant blue glacier and found a lake that was populated by recently calved icebergs. I even got to pick one up on the shore. There was a fabulous waterfall called Nugget Falls. Inside the Visitor Center we viewed an informative film, saw exhibits and posed with stuffed animals like bears and wolves and eagles. The area is humming with eagles. Made us feel at home. I wonder how many of them spend their winters around Winona?

We returned to the ferry and began our trip back to Haines. Along the way we saw more whales, eagles, muerrets and some adorable Harbor seals hanging out on a small island that housed one of only three lighthouses in Alaska. We were treated to a tasty smoked salmon chowder with a roll and cookie. Our kind of cruise: food but not too much. After reaching the harbor we drove to the end of the road to Chilkoot State Park where we booked a campsite for two nights.

Tomorrow we explore the town of Haines. Who knows; maybe we will find someone who remembers Joe Libera!