The 'Ksan Cultural Center

15 July 2010
Thursday

We left Alaska for the last time this trip and retraced our route through the canyons from the Portland Fjord back to the Cassiar Highway. Our goal was to reach Prince George but we had to settle for Smithers. There we found a garage that will change the oil in the Green Rocket first thing in the morning.

Along the way today we spotted a grey fox and a couple of eagles. Nary a bear, however. We also found lots of amazing mountains and rivers and creeks and suddenly we realized that we were back into a "civilization" of sorts: farms, hay fields, cows and horses, more traffic than we were used to, towns everywhere and signage. We wanted to go back.

Off and on all day we had rain, enough to clean the mud off the running boards and some of the bug goo off the windshield. It even rained while the sun was out. Our daily rain: what else can I say!

In the Hazeltons [three towns named Hazelton] we found a First Nation Cultural Center called 'Ksan. It is located where two big rivers converge: the Skeena and the Bulkley. There is a reconstructed village with several longhouses including some that we could enter. One housed a carving center where First Nation carvers were working on masks with a master carver. In addition to the masks, there were many different types of artesania available in the gift shop. The masks were spendy [in the thousands of dollars] so we opted to be happy with the one we bought earlier in the trip. Scattered throughout the grounds were many totems. The guidebook explained the symbolism of each one and its various parts. I found it unusual to find one with a white man portrayed. Inside the museum there was a great display on the River of Mists: the First Nation word for the Skeena River. It explained the history of the people here, their way of survival which depended upon the various types of salmon, the gathering of berries, roots and other plants and trade with other bands of native peoples. The details about the salmon fishing and preservation were especially interesting. We learned that birch bark was their "aluminum foil." The background music was especially soothing. I decided that this was my birthday present.

In the town of Smithers we were directed to a wonderful restaurant called Alpenhorn. [The town is very Swiss in its decor: not sure about the history.] Our waitress was from Germany; just south of Berlin, she said. I had some delicious salmon and Jim tried Syrian meatballs. I tried the Canadian version of sangria: cider with raspberry liqueur and frozen berries and pears. Different but not so bad.

Now we are settling in to our campsite right on the Bulkley River [and I mean right on it! Another foot or so and we'll be in it!]. We also have a view of Hudson Bay Mountain out the back window. It's still snow-covered and right now the clouds are pretty well obscuring its top. Met some very nice Polish immigrants who are currently living near Vancouver. They gave us some great tips for things to do and see in both Washington and Oregon.

Tomorrow: an oil change.