30 June 2010
Wednesday
We rolled out of Talkeetna and drove back along the spur road until we reached The Flying Squirrel Bakery and Restaurant. Stepping inside was like being transported to Santa Fe. We each had a cup of coffee and a multi-berry muffin. It was the best coffee so far this trip.
Once we were back on the Parks Highway we traveled north with the Denali-containing range to our left. Due to the rain and really low clouds, we saw nothing. A clerk at the park told us that even though the guidebooks all say there is only a 30% chance of actually seeing Denali, the reality is more like 10%. So we bought some postcards to see what we were missing.
In order to justify purchasing a patch for my walking stick [which is still in the basement at home, by the way] we decided to try a hike or two. We drove into the park as far as private vehicles are permitted and took first a 1/4 mile stroll to see the Savage River Cabin where rangers and their dogs take refuge when patrolling the park in the winter. No one uses snow machines. Shortly thereafter, we saw three caribou in the Savage River bottoms. They were a bit far but we tried to get photos. At the very end of the "civilized" trail, there was a loop trail that followed the Savage River through a steep canyon, crosses the river via a walking bridge and then returns along the other side. Lots of wild flowers and one hoary marmot. We were almost to the end when we got soaked. The raincoats? We left those in the van. On the way back to the park entrance we spotted a lynx casually crossing the road in front of us.
Back at the campsite, we enjoyed a good meal and will rest to the lullaby of passing trucks.
One more try to connect with Liza's friend at the end of the park road in Kantishna.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
The end of the road
That would be Talkeetna, Alaska. It's at the end of a spur road off the main drag [Highway #3 also known as Parks Highway] about 14 miles. It reminded us a lot of Madrid, NM: an old village whose homes have been rehabbed into art shops, eateries, souvenir shops and little museums. There was even a brewery: the Denali Brewery. After a day spent visiting every shop and the ranger station, we drove into a recommended campground right on the Susitna River. We got a site right on the river with the roaring waters right behind us. The place was loaded with fishermen and their boats and rubber boots and RVs. It was the Duddie's of Alaska. The showers were out of order; the bathrooms closed at 6:30 pm and didn't open again until 9 AM; there was a really great fire ring but the firewood was all wet because it started raining and didn't quit ALL NIGHT. So we made the best of a bad situation and played Scrabble until 11:30. Remember, there is no night here this time of year. If we remember correctly, we have not seen dark since Glacier Park. Anyway, Jim beat me the first game and I beat him the second but we were too tired for the rubber match.
What will tomorrow bring?
What will tomorrow bring?
Monday, June 28, 2010
Weekend in Anchorage
'Tis Monday and the rain and clouds persist so we will make do with what we are given.
Friday we arrived in the mid-afternoon and received a royal welcome and tour of brother Tony's super garden: the things that man can grow here in the land of summer sun: corn, sunflowers, beets, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes, squash, herbs [Mary's specialties] and fruit trees. Supper included a salad from the garden plus fresh halibut from a neighbor.
Saturday we walked around Lakes Hood and Spenard which house tons of float planes which were great to watch land and take off. The rest of the day Tony and Mary scurried to get ready for a party so that we could meet their friends and get to re-know a cousin, Lonnie Laurent. And again the food was superb. Cozied around a chiminea fire when the house put the yard in shade. [It never really gets dark here in the summer.]
Sunday we enjoyed breakfast burritos and then Tony took us downtown to see the Anchorage Museum at the Rasmuson Center where we could see some great displays of Alaska's cultural heritage and artifacts from its history including the gold rush, the railroads, the fur trapping era and the oil boom. There was also a traveling display from the Smithsonian Museum's Arctic Studies Center. It showed clothes, tools, toys and other items from all of the native groups that have called Alaska home over the many years. From there we walked downtown to find a reindeer-dog for Jim. Then we drove to Earthquake Park to see how the land changed in 1964 when a 9.2 earthquake destroyed the area.
Today we plan to hike around downtown and along the Knik Arm. Tomorrow, it's off to Denali for a few days.
Friday we arrived in the mid-afternoon and received a royal welcome and tour of brother Tony's super garden: the things that man can grow here in the land of summer sun: corn, sunflowers, beets, carrots, tomatoes, potatoes, squash, herbs [Mary's specialties] and fruit trees. Supper included a salad from the garden plus fresh halibut from a neighbor.
Saturday we walked around Lakes Hood and Spenard which house tons of float planes which were great to watch land and take off. The rest of the day Tony and Mary scurried to get ready for a party so that we could meet their friends and get to re-know a cousin, Lonnie Laurent. And again the food was superb. Cozied around a chiminea fire when the house put the yard in shade. [It never really gets dark here in the summer.]
Sunday we enjoyed breakfast burritos and then Tony took us downtown to see the Anchorage Museum at the Rasmuson Center where we could see some great displays of Alaska's cultural heritage and artifacts from its history including the gold rush, the railroads, the fur trapping era and the oil boom. There was also a traveling display from the Smithsonian Museum's Arctic Studies Center. It showed clothes, tools, toys and other items from all of the native groups that have called Alaska home over the many years. From there we walked downtown to find a reindeer-dog for Jim. Then we drove to Earthquake Park to see how the land changed in 1964 when a 9.2 earthquake destroyed the area.
Today we plan to hike around downtown and along the Knik Arm. Tomorrow, it's off to Denali for a few days.
Friday, June 25, 2010
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Top-of-the-World Highway
24 June 2010
Thursday
Woke up to some major fog and decided to go for the road anyway: it's steep, narrow, gravel, mushy after yesterday's rain, washboardy and has no guardrails. Glad we did because once we broke out of the fog the views were incredible. We just could not get enough of them. Lots and lots of pictures later we are 190 miles from Anchorage in a campground that is surrounded on three sides by wilderness and our site is next to another babbling stream. We are going to miss that when we get home.
The road is not only the main road, it is the only road. The trip over the top was unreal. Never have we experienced so much weather in such a short time: fog, glaring sunshine, heat [70-degree temps], then cold [in the 40s], followed by rain and SNOW and then it all repeated itself again. We were stopping constantly to try to capture the view. The "top" was a short hike up to a large cairn just before the border. It is a grand 4,500 ft. up. But we enjoyed it anyway.
We crossed the border without incident and then it was all downhill from there--and then back up and down and up and down: well, you get the idea. The roads in the Yukon make the roads in Alaska look like we are in a third world country. Apparently the permafrost takes no prisoners and the roads are like a roller coaster. Just watching the big rigs tackle them made us wince. We were glad we just have the van; it was bouncy enough. In the Yukon, they grade the asphalt right off and replace it with gravel so it is dusty but relatively smooth. In Alaska the rollers are just there and you get to bounce around a lot.
On a high note we started to see really tall mountains: 12,000 - 16,000 feet tall. They were all covered with snow and for the most part obscured by the clouds that were making the snow and sleet and rain that we were experiencing at a lower altitude. We are at an altitude of about 1,200 ft. here and will be steadily going down as we approach Anchorage which is at sea level.
And so the babbling brook rushes by the "dining room" and with the windows open tonight it will lull us to sleep.
Then it's off to the big city: Anchorage.
Thursday
Woke up to some major fog and decided to go for the road anyway: it's steep, narrow, gravel, mushy after yesterday's rain, washboardy and has no guardrails. Glad we did because once we broke out of the fog the views were incredible. We just could not get enough of them. Lots and lots of pictures later we are 190 miles from Anchorage in a campground that is surrounded on three sides by wilderness and our site is next to another babbling stream. We are going to miss that when we get home.
The road is not only the main road, it is the only road. The trip over the top was unreal. Never have we experienced so much weather in such a short time: fog, glaring sunshine, heat [70-degree temps], then cold [in the 40s], followed by rain and SNOW and then it all repeated itself again. We were stopping constantly to try to capture the view. The "top" was a short hike up to a large cairn just before the border. It is a grand 4,500 ft. up. But we enjoyed it anyway.
We crossed the border without incident and then it was all downhill from there--and then back up and down and up and down: well, you get the idea. The roads in the Yukon make the roads in Alaska look like we are in a third world country. Apparently the permafrost takes no prisoners and the roads are like a roller coaster. Just watching the big rigs tackle them made us wince. We were glad we just have the van; it was bouncy enough. In the Yukon, they grade the asphalt right off and replace it with gravel so it is dusty but relatively smooth. In Alaska the rollers are just there and you get to bounce around a lot.
On a high note we started to see really tall mountains: 12,000 - 16,000 feet tall. They were all covered with snow and for the most part obscured by the clouds that were making the snow and sleet and rain that we were experiencing at a lower altitude. We are at an altitude of about 1,200 ft. here and will be steadily going down as we approach Anchorage which is at sea level.
And so the babbling brook rushes by the "dining room" and with the windows open tonight it will lull us to sleep.
Then it's off to the big city: Anchorage.
Rainy Day in Dawson
23 June 2010
Wednesday
Last night we did a walking tour of the village and stopped in the Downtown Hotel for a drink--minus the mummified toe which is available for a $5 charge. You get to drink it with "captain" as your witness and then be added to the list of "Sourtoe" drinkers. It rained for most of the night --or what is defined as "night" this time of year. No need for street lights in the Summer!
This morning it was still raining so we did coffee in the campground office and bread and jam in the van and headed toward the Yukon River on Front Street--just like home! First visit was to the Visitor's Centre where we enjoyed two films on local history: "Gold Rush" and "Mining for Gold." Next we visited the Dawson City Museum where we learned about the short life of the railroads here and looked at some amazing engines, flat cars and box cars from the era. Very large to say the least. Peter would love these! Then on to the riverfront to visit the Dänojä Zho Cultural Center where we learned about the history and survival of the local First Nation people that were displaced by the Gold Rush. Thanks to their visionary leader, Chief Isaac, they moved downstream to a new camp called Moosehide which is still in existence. He also sent the tribe's artifacts, stories and songs to some relatives in Alaska for safekeeping. In the 1970s the Nation began to petition the government of Canada for the return of their lands and rights. In the early 1990s a reconnecting took place and the stories, songs and artifacts were officially returned. Since then the people have developed schools, adult classes and this center to aid in the revival of their Nation. The young lady working at the desk is the great-great-granddaughter of Chief Isaac so she was an awesome hostess. Outside we enjoyed freshly made bannock [and got the recipe, Liza] with a mixed wildberry jam.
It was still raining so we took a ride up Bonanza Creek where the first gold was discovered that precipitated the Klondike Gold Rush. You can still pan for gold at a claim that is owned by Parcs Canada but it was really raining by then. We drove to the Dredge #4, one of the wooden dredges built to assist the mining companies with the extraction of gold from the Placer layer. Jim signed up for the tour and will have to relate his findings in another blog.
Meanwhile, the rain continued to fall by the bucket-load.
After some window shopping in Dawson we stopped to enjoy some hot soup and coffee at the Midnight Sun Roasters. Then it was onto the ferry to cross the mighty Yukon River. After that we immediately found our campground for the night: the Top-of-the-World Highway campground run by the Yukon government. And, yes, it is still raining.
Poor Rocket is a mess; we could hardly recognize her in the parking lot.
The river here is a rushing maniac: high and muddy on its way to the Bering Sea. The softly falling rain lulling us to sleep in this very peaceful but bear-filled area is quite the experience.
Wednesday
Last night we did a walking tour of the village and stopped in the Downtown Hotel for a drink--minus the mummified toe which is available for a $5 charge. You get to drink it with "captain" as your witness and then be added to the list of "Sourtoe" drinkers. It rained for most of the night --or what is defined as "night" this time of year. No need for street lights in the Summer!
This morning it was still raining so we did coffee in the campground office and bread and jam in the van and headed toward the Yukon River on Front Street--just like home! First visit was to the Visitor's Centre where we enjoyed two films on local history: "Gold Rush" and "Mining for Gold." Next we visited the Dawson City Museum where we learned about the short life of the railroads here and looked at some amazing engines, flat cars and box cars from the era. Very large to say the least. Peter would love these! Then on to the riverfront to visit the Dänojä Zho Cultural Center where we learned about the history and survival of the local First Nation people that were displaced by the Gold Rush. Thanks to their visionary leader, Chief Isaac, they moved downstream to a new camp called Moosehide which is still in existence. He also sent the tribe's artifacts, stories and songs to some relatives in Alaska for safekeeping. In the 1970s the Nation began to petition the government of Canada for the return of their lands and rights. In the early 1990s a reconnecting took place and the stories, songs and artifacts were officially returned. Since then the people have developed schools, adult classes and this center to aid in the revival of their Nation. The young lady working at the desk is the great-great-granddaughter of Chief Isaac so she was an awesome hostess. Outside we enjoyed freshly made bannock [and got the recipe, Liza] with a mixed wildberry jam.
It was still raining so we took a ride up Bonanza Creek where the first gold was discovered that precipitated the Klondike Gold Rush. You can still pan for gold at a claim that is owned by Parcs Canada but it was really raining by then. We drove to the Dredge #4, one of the wooden dredges built to assist the mining companies with the extraction of gold from the Placer layer. Jim signed up for the tour and will have to relate his findings in another blog.
Meanwhile, the rain continued to fall by the bucket-load.
After some window shopping in Dawson we stopped to enjoy some hot soup and coffee at the Midnight Sun Roasters. Then it was onto the ferry to cross the mighty Yukon River. After that we immediately found our campground for the night: the Top-of-the-World Highway campground run by the Yukon government. And, yes, it is still raining.
Poor Rocket is a mess; we could hardly recognize her in the parking lot.
The river here is a rushing maniac: high and muddy on its way to the Bering Sea. The softly falling rain lulling us to sleep in this very peaceful but bear-filled area is quite the experience.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
In the shadow of Klondike Kate's
Tuesday
22 June
We began our day in Mom's Bakery on Lake Laberge eating cinnamon rolls the size of a dinner plate--each of us had one. Coffee and a view to die for completed the breakfast scene. The mosquitoes were so numerous and HUNGRY that we didn't think we could stand to make breakfast at the campsite. Mom [Tracy Harris] is a 3rd generation placer miner whose grandfather came here from California during the Klondike Gold Rush. With him he brought a sourdough starter [made from hops] which she still uses to create her breads. We also bought a loaf of her 12-grain bread for supper tonight. In addition she entertained us with lots of Yukon stories from her life. We left with a big hug.
Today's journey took us north along the Klondike Highway to Dawson City. We made several stops to visit the Heritage Centres of several First Nations. The history and the personal stories told by the people are amazing. We learned about building a dug-out canoe for long trips and a moose hide canoe for shorter trips. Even saw a life-size replica of a mammoth trap.
The highway follows the Yukon River. There were several different burn sites from 1995, 1969 and 1953 that burned thousands of acres of forest but which are now rejuvenating themselves to the delights of the animals and biodiversity. There was an area that boasted being the only place in the Yukon where American coots nest in the Summer. We all know where they spend autumn, don't we? Another area shows remnants of a large volcanic eruption in the ash layer that is visible in the road cuts.
Speaking of the road: it was a real roller coaster today; lots of frost heaves, several patches of gravel and a super-muddy construction zone that was a LITTLE bit slippery.
Most of the afternoon we traveled in rainfall ranging from a drizzle to a downpour. The van enjoyed a much-needed bath. Just before we hit the outskirts of Dawson City the rain stopped and the sky cleared. Could be a chilly night here in the Gold Rush Campground where we are lined up like cordwood in a parking lot. We are downtown: within walking distance of places like Klondike Kate's, Diamond Tooth Gertie's and the Sourdough Saloon where the specialty is a Sourtoe Cocktail featuring a drink that has a mummified human toe in it that must touch your lips in order for you to be inducted. Some 32,000 brave souls have already done so and Jim aims to be #32,001.
In addition we added two more items to our Yukon Explorer's Passport: a visit to Jack London's cabin and the house of the famous Yukon poet, Robert Service [famous for the poem The Cremation of Sam McGee].
And Dawson City? The sidewalks are all board walks. The streets are all dirt [yes, even the main street]. All the buildings have either received a fresh coat of paint this spring or they are covered in vinyl siding. The view is fabulous: from our front window we can see the mountains. And just down the street is the mighty Yukon River which we will need to ferry across in order to leave town. The gentleman at the desk claims that Dawson is a three-day town. We hadn't planned to stay quite that long.
We'll see.
22 June
We began our day in Mom's Bakery on Lake Laberge eating cinnamon rolls the size of a dinner plate--each of us had one. Coffee and a view to die for completed the breakfast scene. The mosquitoes were so numerous and HUNGRY that we didn't think we could stand to make breakfast at the campsite. Mom [Tracy Harris] is a 3rd generation placer miner whose grandfather came here from California during the Klondike Gold Rush. With him he brought a sourdough starter [made from hops] which she still uses to create her breads. We also bought a loaf of her 12-grain bread for supper tonight. In addition she entertained us with lots of Yukon stories from her life. We left with a big hug.
Today's journey took us north along the Klondike Highway to Dawson City. We made several stops to visit the Heritage Centres of several First Nations. The history and the personal stories told by the people are amazing. We learned about building a dug-out canoe for long trips and a moose hide canoe for shorter trips. Even saw a life-size replica of a mammoth trap.
The highway follows the Yukon River. There were several different burn sites from 1995, 1969 and 1953 that burned thousands of acres of forest but which are now rejuvenating themselves to the delights of the animals and biodiversity. There was an area that boasted being the only place in the Yukon where American coots nest in the Summer. We all know where they spend autumn, don't we? Another area shows remnants of a large volcanic eruption in the ash layer that is visible in the road cuts.
Speaking of the road: it was a real roller coaster today; lots of frost heaves, several patches of gravel and a super-muddy construction zone that was a LITTLE bit slippery.
Most of the afternoon we traveled in rainfall ranging from a drizzle to a downpour. The van enjoyed a much-needed bath. Just before we hit the outskirts of Dawson City the rain stopped and the sky cleared. Could be a chilly night here in the Gold Rush Campground where we are lined up like cordwood in a parking lot. We are downtown: within walking distance of places like Klondike Kate's, Diamond Tooth Gertie's and the Sourdough Saloon where the specialty is a Sourtoe Cocktail featuring a drink that has a mummified human toe in it that must touch your lips in order for you to be inducted. Some 32,000 brave souls have already done so and Jim aims to be #32,001.
In addition we added two more items to our Yukon Explorer's Passport: a visit to Jack London's cabin and the house of the famous Yukon poet, Robert Service [famous for the poem The Cremation of Sam McGee].
And Dawson City? The sidewalks are all board walks. The streets are all dirt [yes, even the main street]. All the buildings have either received a fresh coat of paint this spring or they are covered in vinyl siding. The view is fabulous: from our front window we can see the mountains. And just down the street is the mighty Yukon River which we will need to ferry across in order to leave town. The gentleman at the desk claims that Dawson is a three-day town. We hadn't planned to stay quite that long.
We'll see.
Summer Solstice
21 June 2010
Monday
Watson Lake to Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory where we haven't seen dark for days. It's the Summer Solstice--the longest day of the year and here, that is really long. All day and all night in fact. But we are able to sleep in spite of all the light. Sometimes we just forget to go to bed at a decent hour.
Today we began with a journey through the Signpost Forest: a collection of signs from all over the world. There are nearly 70,000 of them. Next time we come here we will have to remember to bring something from Winona. We think we may have met the most enthusiastic Tourist Information worker in the world. She loaded us down with so many brochures, maps, books and suggestions that we could barely carry them all. We tried to follow most of her suggestions and were rewarded with a stunning array of experiences: Several movies, some great photo ops and a couple of fabulous museums that we would probably have skipped. The only thing we blew by was the world's best cinnamon roll.
Animal count for the day:
*2 black bears
*1 moose
*a grouse
*a pair of Canada geese with about seven goslings trying to cross the highway
We did a couple of short hikes along the way which made the 300 miles today take a little longer than it should have. In Whitehorse we toured downtown, collected our stamps at the Info Centre and found the Yukon Brewing Company for some samples and a few purchases. Jim got a new toque and found more WinCraft products there. The last frost here was 19 June and they expect their first frost on 19 August. Definitely a short growing season, eh?
It was getting late so we headed out to look for a campground. We are now on the Klondike Highway headed toward Dawson City. We found a great Provincial Park [like a state park] with few services and consequently few people. It is on Lake Laberge which, like Lake Pepin, is just a wide spot in a river, this one being the Yukon River. There are an incredible number of wild roses here. We just cannot get over it. We keep taking pictures of them. We probably have enough to publish a "wild rose" book.
Did you know that in this entire province there are only eleven roads? And not all of them are paved.
And so as the sun slips into the north, we say goodnight.
Monday
Watson Lake to Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory where we haven't seen dark for days. It's the Summer Solstice--the longest day of the year and here, that is really long. All day and all night in fact. But we are able to sleep in spite of all the light. Sometimes we just forget to go to bed at a decent hour.
Today we began with a journey through the Signpost Forest: a collection of signs from all over the world. There are nearly 70,000 of them. Next time we come here we will have to remember to bring something from Winona. We think we may have met the most enthusiastic Tourist Information worker in the world. She loaded us down with so many brochures, maps, books and suggestions that we could barely carry them all. We tried to follow most of her suggestions and were rewarded with a stunning array of experiences: Several movies, some great photo ops and a couple of fabulous museums that we would probably have skipped. The only thing we blew by was the world's best cinnamon roll.
Animal count for the day:
*2 black bears
*1 moose
*a grouse
*a pair of Canada geese with about seven goslings trying to cross the highway
We did a couple of short hikes along the way which made the 300 miles today take a little longer than it should have. In Whitehorse we toured downtown, collected our stamps at the Info Centre and found the Yukon Brewing Company for some samples and a few purchases. Jim got a new toque and found more WinCraft products there. The last frost here was 19 June and they expect their first frost on 19 August. Definitely a short growing season, eh?
It was getting late so we headed out to look for a campground. We are now on the Klondike Highway headed toward Dawson City. We found a great Provincial Park [like a state park] with few services and consequently few people. It is on Lake Laberge which, like Lake Pepin, is just a wide spot in a river, this one being the Yukon River. There are an incredible number of wild roses here. We just cannot get over it. We keep taking pictures of them. We probably have enough to publish a "wild rose" book.
Did you know that in this entire province there are only eleven roads? And not all of them are paved.
And so as the sun slips into the north, we say goodnight.
Monday, June 21, 2010
The Last pix of the day
Greetings from the driver and cook. (Jim)
The alaska hwy is everything I thought it would be and more and less. It is a lot dustier than I imagined. Make sure that you have new tires when you start out; the varied roads are hard on tires. Camping isn't at all what I thought. The provincial parks are like state parks at home. But the private campgrounds are just big dusty parking lots that look like a truck plaza on the interstates. Check out the posted photo. Distances are or seem to be stretched out, 300 miles seem like 500 miles. but the days and the miles fly by. The scenery is almost too much to take in. We are the smallest "RV" on the road. Everyone has a big diesel pickup with a 5th wheel, or a huge pusher motor home about the size of a greyhound bus. but we have more fun. Time for a scotch and try to sleep. The sun sets today about 12:30 am, and rises at 12:35 am.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)