Tuesday, June 22, 2010
In the shadow of Klondike Kate's
Tuesday
22 June
We began our day in Mom's Bakery on Lake Laberge eating cinnamon rolls the size of a dinner plate--each of us had one. Coffee and a view to die for completed the breakfast scene. The mosquitoes were so numerous and HUNGRY that we didn't think we could stand to make breakfast at the campsite. Mom [Tracy Harris] is a 3rd generation placer miner whose grandfather came here from California during the Klondike Gold Rush. With him he brought a sourdough starter [made from hops] which she still uses to create her breads. We also bought a loaf of her 12-grain bread for supper tonight. In addition she entertained us with lots of Yukon stories from her life. We left with a big hug.
Today's journey took us north along the Klondike Highway to Dawson City. We made several stops to visit the Heritage Centres of several First Nations. The history and the personal stories told by the people are amazing. We learned about building a dug-out canoe for long trips and a moose hide canoe for shorter trips. Even saw a life-size replica of a mammoth trap.
The highway follows the Yukon River. There were several different burn sites from 1995, 1969 and 1953 that burned thousands of acres of forest but which are now rejuvenating themselves to the delights of the animals and biodiversity. There was an area that boasted being the only place in the Yukon where American coots nest in the Summer. We all know where they spend autumn, don't we? Another area shows remnants of a large volcanic eruption in the ash layer that is visible in the road cuts.
Speaking of the road: it was a real roller coaster today; lots of frost heaves, several patches of gravel and a super-muddy construction zone that was a LITTLE bit slippery.
Most of the afternoon we traveled in rainfall ranging from a drizzle to a downpour. The van enjoyed a much-needed bath. Just before we hit the outskirts of Dawson City the rain stopped and the sky cleared. Could be a chilly night here in the Gold Rush Campground where we are lined up like cordwood in a parking lot. We are downtown: within walking distance of places like Klondike Kate's, Diamond Tooth Gertie's and the Sourdough Saloon where the specialty is a Sourtoe Cocktail featuring a drink that has a mummified human toe in it that must touch your lips in order for you to be inducted. Some 32,000 brave souls have already done so and Jim aims to be #32,001.
In addition we added two more items to our Yukon Explorer's Passport: a visit to Jack London's cabin and the house of the famous Yukon poet, Robert Service [famous for the poem The Cremation of Sam McGee].
And Dawson City? The sidewalks are all board walks. The streets are all dirt [yes, even the main street]. All the buildings have either received a fresh coat of paint this spring or they are covered in vinyl siding. The view is fabulous: from our front window we can see the mountains. And just down the street is the mighty Yukon River which we will need to ferry across in order to leave town. The gentleman at the desk claims that Dawson is a three-day town. We hadn't planned to stay quite that long.
We'll see.
22 June
We began our day in Mom's Bakery on Lake Laberge eating cinnamon rolls the size of a dinner plate--each of us had one. Coffee and a view to die for completed the breakfast scene. The mosquitoes were so numerous and HUNGRY that we didn't think we could stand to make breakfast at the campsite. Mom [Tracy Harris] is a 3rd generation placer miner whose grandfather came here from California during the Klondike Gold Rush. With him he brought a sourdough starter [made from hops] which she still uses to create her breads. We also bought a loaf of her 12-grain bread for supper tonight. In addition she entertained us with lots of Yukon stories from her life. We left with a big hug.
Today's journey took us north along the Klondike Highway to Dawson City. We made several stops to visit the Heritage Centres of several First Nations. The history and the personal stories told by the people are amazing. We learned about building a dug-out canoe for long trips and a moose hide canoe for shorter trips. Even saw a life-size replica of a mammoth trap.
The highway follows the Yukon River. There were several different burn sites from 1995, 1969 and 1953 that burned thousands of acres of forest but which are now rejuvenating themselves to the delights of the animals and biodiversity. There was an area that boasted being the only place in the Yukon where American coots nest in the Summer. We all know where they spend autumn, don't we? Another area shows remnants of a large volcanic eruption in the ash layer that is visible in the road cuts.
Speaking of the road: it was a real roller coaster today; lots of frost heaves, several patches of gravel and a super-muddy construction zone that was a LITTLE bit slippery.
Most of the afternoon we traveled in rainfall ranging from a drizzle to a downpour. The van enjoyed a much-needed bath. Just before we hit the outskirts of Dawson City the rain stopped and the sky cleared. Could be a chilly night here in the Gold Rush Campground where we are lined up like cordwood in a parking lot. We are downtown: within walking distance of places like Klondike Kate's, Diamond Tooth Gertie's and the Sourdough Saloon where the specialty is a Sourtoe Cocktail featuring a drink that has a mummified human toe in it that must touch your lips in order for you to be inducted. Some 32,000 brave souls have already done so and Jim aims to be #32,001.
In addition we added two more items to our Yukon Explorer's Passport: a visit to Jack London's cabin and the house of the famous Yukon poet, Robert Service [famous for the poem The Cremation of Sam McGee].
And Dawson City? The sidewalks are all board walks. The streets are all dirt [yes, even the main street]. All the buildings have either received a fresh coat of paint this spring or they are covered in vinyl siding. The view is fabulous: from our front window we can see the mountains. And just down the street is the mighty Yukon River which we will need to ferry across in order to leave town. The gentleman at the desk claims that Dawson is a three-day town. We hadn't planned to stay quite that long.
We'll see.
Summer Solstice
21 June 2010
Monday
Watson Lake to Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory where we haven't seen dark for days. It's the Summer Solstice--the longest day of the year and here, that is really long. All day and all night in fact. But we are able to sleep in spite of all the light. Sometimes we just forget to go to bed at a decent hour.
Today we began with a journey through the Signpost Forest: a collection of signs from all over the world. There are nearly 70,000 of them. Next time we come here we will have to remember to bring something from Winona. We think we may have met the most enthusiastic Tourist Information worker in the world. She loaded us down with so many brochures, maps, books and suggestions that we could barely carry them all. We tried to follow most of her suggestions and were rewarded with a stunning array of experiences: Several movies, some great photo ops and a couple of fabulous museums that we would probably have skipped. The only thing we blew by was the world's best cinnamon roll.
Animal count for the day:
*2 black bears
*1 moose
*a grouse
*a pair of Canada geese with about seven goslings trying to cross the highway
We did a couple of short hikes along the way which made the 300 miles today take a little longer than it should have. In Whitehorse we toured downtown, collected our stamps at the Info Centre and found the Yukon Brewing Company for some samples and a few purchases. Jim got a new toque and found more WinCraft products there. The last frost here was 19 June and they expect their first frost on 19 August. Definitely a short growing season, eh?
It was getting late so we headed out to look for a campground. We are now on the Klondike Highway headed toward Dawson City. We found a great Provincial Park [like a state park] with few services and consequently few people. It is on Lake Laberge which, like Lake Pepin, is just a wide spot in a river, this one being the Yukon River. There are an incredible number of wild roses here. We just cannot get over it. We keep taking pictures of them. We probably have enough to publish a "wild rose" book.
Did you know that in this entire province there are only eleven roads? And not all of them are paved.
And so as the sun slips into the north, we say goodnight.
Monday
Watson Lake to Whitehorse in the Yukon Territory where we haven't seen dark for days. It's the Summer Solstice--the longest day of the year and here, that is really long. All day and all night in fact. But we are able to sleep in spite of all the light. Sometimes we just forget to go to bed at a decent hour.
Today we began with a journey through the Signpost Forest: a collection of signs from all over the world. There are nearly 70,000 of them. Next time we come here we will have to remember to bring something from Winona. We think we may have met the most enthusiastic Tourist Information worker in the world. She loaded us down with so many brochures, maps, books and suggestions that we could barely carry them all. We tried to follow most of her suggestions and were rewarded with a stunning array of experiences: Several movies, some great photo ops and a couple of fabulous museums that we would probably have skipped. The only thing we blew by was the world's best cinnamon roll.
Animal count for the day:
*2 black bears
*1 moose
*a grouse
*a pair of Canada geese with about seven goslings trying to cross the highway
We did a couple of short hikes along the way which made the 300 miles today take a little longer than it should have. In Whitehorse we toured downtown, collected our stamps at the Info Centre and found the Yukon Brewing Company for some samples and a few purchases. Jim got a new toque and found more WinCraft products there. The last frost here was 19 June and they expect their first frost on 19 August. Definitely a short growing season, eh?
It was getting late so we headed out to look for a campground. We are now on the Klondike Highway headed toward Dawson City. We found a great Provincial Park [like a state park] with few services and consequently few people. It is on Lake Laberge which, like Lake Pepin, is just a wide spot in a river, this one being the Yukon River. There are an incredible number of wild roses here. We just cannot get over it. We keep taking pictures of them. We probably have enough to publish a "wild rose" book.
Did you know that in this entire province there are only eleven roads? And not all of them are paved.
And so as the sun slips into the north, we say goodnight.
Monday, June 21, 2010
The Last pix of the day
Greetings from the driver and cook. (Jim)
The alaska hwy is everything I thought it would be and more and less. It is a lot dustier than I imagined. Make sure that you have new tires when you start out; the varied roads are hard on tires. Camping isn't at all what I thought. The provincial parks are like state parks at home. But the private campgrounds are just big dusty parking lots that look like a truck plaza on the interstates. Check out the posted photo. Distances are or seem to be stretched out, 300 miles seem like 500 miles. but the days and the miles fly by. The scenery is almost too much to take in. We are the smallest "RV" on the road. Everyone has a big diesel pickup with a 5th wheel, or a huge pusher motor home about the size of a greyhound bus. but we have more fun. Time for a scotch and try to sleep. The sun sets today about 12:30 am, and rises at 12:35 am.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
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